Official Luthiers Forum!

Here`s the first neck ,I meant to post.
Back to the rose bowl.
                        James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

2nd pic is nice, both the way it shows the glue line and corresponding cap shape, and the neck itself. 

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Build log

Thanks Alex.Although I can see where I need to remove a little material on the left side of the heel right below the cap.Pictures help.I just hope that real craftsmanship isn`t lost to the CNC.Just an old timers opinion.
             James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

[QUOTE=James W B] Thanks Alex.Although I can see where I need to remove a little material on the left side of the heel right below the cap.Pictures help.I just hope that real craftsmanship isn`t lost to the CNC.Just an old timers opinion.
               James[/QUOTE]

...but CNC stands Craftsmanship by Numeric Control...

On necks I've made I've progressed through the following methods, all of which made fine necks (though the last one pretty much bats 1000 on perfect necks)

1- Spokeshave to rasp to 'shoe shine' sanding starting with 80 grit with scraping and finally 220 grit

2- Spokeshave for about 30 seconds taking huge cuts and then belt sander with the 220 grit just to clean off the belt scratches

3- Put blank in Fadal, wait a few minutes, take blank out and finish sand

Of the manual ones, I liked the feel of carving a neck with a good rasp but the belt sander really provides the results and you can carve any sort of wonky wood without worrying about tearout.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

Band saw roughly to shape then hit it with the Japanese saw file, never cloggs course one side, fine the other. Then second cut rasp and sandpaper. Heel I carve mostly with laminated knife. especially on Spanish heel where access can be a problem, but course and second cut rasps also used.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

[QUOTE=Hesh] To shape my necks I use a cell phone - and call John Watkins......[/QUOTE]

HA!

Kinda like, "What does your wife make for dinner that you like best.......reservations!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

Happy New Year Hesh!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

And to all on the OLF!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

[QUOTE=Terry Stowell]

That's funny Hesh. I did use one of his premade necks successfully, in a hurry. Saved some time. Of course, I still had to shape that rectangular paddle into a curvy headstock though... It's a great option. Back to our original question....

Anyone post some pix for mitch?

[/QUOTE]

What? RESHAPED the paddle? So, THAT'S why my customer was so mad!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

I just hope that real craftsmanship isn`t lost to the CNC

This is a huge misconception that I continually see pop-up. Just because something is digital does not mean that it is not art. All the CNC does is provide a quicker path towards the realization of a design...and it is THE way to go if you want to do production. In the end, it is always your vision and design that dictate a successful product, and not the manner in which the sawdust is separated from the neck.

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http://www.PeakeGuitars.com

I use chisel, RO and a pneumatic blatter sanding drum. Most of the heel material removal is done with chisel. The beam with RO using 60p/80p grit and the final heel and transition into the beam with the pneumatic blatter drum sander and the fin sanded by hand.

I use this dead head sander (idea borrowed from Charles Fox) for the neck and a spindle sander chucked in a drill press for the heel.

For final shaping of the transitions, I have an extra set of rubber spindles I use by hand. Varying sizes of sanding spindles is a great way to get the transitions fair.

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

Cool setup Kent!

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http://www.PeakeGuitars.com

Kent - That is a great device!  Could you post a pic showing the whole set-up?

TIA,

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Steve Walden
Aspiring Builder,
Bartlesville, OK

[QUOTE=WaldenWorx]

Kent - That is a great device! Could you post a pic showing the whole set-up?

TIA,

[/QUOTE]
I second that

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“If God dwells inside us like some people say, I sure hope He likes enchiladas, because that's what He's getting”
-jack handy

Thanks. It took some time to work out the kinks but it works great now.

I get asked about it a lot so I put this together...

www.chassonguitars.com/necksander.htm

 

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

[QUOTE=grumpy] Lancelot, rasps, files, big sanding block and 80 grit, scrapers, 280 grit sandpaper.in that order.<div style=": ; width: 28px; height: 28px; : 1000; display: none;">

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Black and Decker power file.

Takes about 15 minutes to get it to rough shape then finish up with files and sandpaper.



Bob

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Bob Connor
Geelong, Australia

Over here it's sawn on the bandsaw, then spokeshave, rasp, files, sandpaper. I use the spindle sander in the transition to the heel around the time I'm rasping.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

ancelot?!? You mean one of those circular chain saw thingies in an angle grinder? Can't picture it.


Yessir! Fear not, it leaves a surprisingly nice surface....

Kent - I went to your site and must say that your neck sander is quite the real deal!

I was wondering if you had thought of using high mole weight HDPE on the dead head corners to reduce friction?

[QUOTE=Kent Chasson]

I use this dead head sander (idea borrowed from Charles Fox) for the neck and a spindle sander chucked in a drill press for the heel.

For final shaping of the transitions, I have an extra set of rubber spindles I use by hand. Varying sizes of sanding spindles is a great way to get the transitions fair.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks,
                     Steve

 and Mcain - sorry if this is a hijack!

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Steve Walden
Aspiring Builder,
Bartlesville, OK

Mitch - sorry that should have been > mgcain !

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Steve Walden
Aspiring Builder,
Bartlesville, OK

Steve, looks like I left out a detail. You can see it in some of the photos but I didn't specifically mention the graphite backer on the deadhead (available from Grizzly parts dept). That's about as friction free as it gets but it also caused some problems in the beginning as loose graphite from the pad coated the back of the belt and the spindle so the belt slipped badly. I cleaned both and added the pinch-roller/skateboard and it does fine now. Takes well under 5 minutes from rectangular to finished.

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

I believe you Mr grumpy ,but it sure scares me.Maybe someday we will all be replaced by machines.
Blade Runner.
                    James W B

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Kent, I bet that jig works great (love the skate board ajuster!), but how much of the dust generated are you able to collect?

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin